Mooncake Memories: A History of Mooncakes 月餅的歷史與今年的意義

Written by Candy Chan · Translated by Jennifer J. Lau

According to the legend, the ancient Chinese emperors used mooncakes as sacrifices to worship the Moon God at Mid-Autumn. So each year in the middle of the 8th month of the Lunar Calendar, the general populace would also worship the Moon God. But what about mooncakes? There are different tales about the custom of eating mooncakes during the Mid-Autumn Festival. It is said to have originated in the Tang Dynasty as celebratory foods after winning a war. It is also said that mooncakes were served as delicacies to those who had just successfully passed their official civil service examinations (which would open doors to a world of opportunities at court). After becoming more popularized, the mooncake tradition and moon-gazing became symbols of family reunions. Mooncakes, subsequently, became associated with this festival.

相傳中國古代帝王於秋天祭月時，會用月餅作為祭品祭奉月神，而民間每逢八月中亦有拜月的風俗。關於中秋節吃月餅的習俗，有不同的故事流傳，有說是起源於唐朝的祝捷食品，和賞賜給新科進士的宮廷美食，流落民間之後，人們逐漸將中秋賞月和品嚐月餅，演化為與家人團圓的象徵，月餅亦慢慢變成了中秋的節日禮品。

Today, there are many kinds of mooncakes, and the flavour varies from region to region. Among them, Hong Kong-style mooncakes made with lotus paste and salted egg yolks are widely loved in China, and even by overseas Chinese. The traditional flavours include: single yolk and lotus seed paste, double yolk and lotus seed paste, and five-nut mooncakes (made with almond, peach, olive, sesame, and wintermelon seeds). And more innovative flavours include “snowy” mooncakes (with a thin chewy white layer) and various fruity combinations! In recent years, we’ve also seen soaring popularity for mooncakes with fresh custard inside that spills out with every bite!

時至今日月餅種類繁多，風味因地域各異。其中香港製造的港式月餅廣為南北各地，以至海外華僑所喜愛。傳統的單黃、雙黃蓮蓉和五仁月餅，到後來的冰皮和各式各樣的鮮果味道組合，任君各取所需。近年的流心月餅，更引起連番排隊搶購熱潮，風頭一時無兩。

Traditional mooncakes have a brown appearance with Lotus paste and Yolk inside.

When we were younger, we gathered together with our family during the Mid-Autumn Festival celebrations and would hold these round mooncakes in our hands. They were oily and sweet but not too heavy. We would cut them into four to eight pieces to share with family members. And it was filled with hopes for a good and simple life.

記得小時後的我們，在中秋節日慶祝與家人聚首一堂，將圓圓的月餅握在手中，那油香滿溢、甜而不膩的味道，仔細切成四塊或八塊，與衆人分享，滿載的是對生活甜蜜、歲月靜好的盼望。

Because of the pandemic this year and related restrictions, celebrations seem to be out of reach for some; people may feel sad when they think of their relatives overseas. Even though you may be physically apart, when you look at the moon, may it remind us that no matter how times may change, we must hold onto the hope of life. As represented by the mooncakes in an era of less material wealth, it is still a blessing to enjoy them with a cup of tea and taste memories of Mid-Autumns past.

今年受疫情所影響、限聚令之下想要團圓仿似遙不可及；在外的游子們想起遠方的親人或許會黯然神傷；縱然難免有阻隔，但看著明月光，周而復始地照地堂，或許該提醒自己，時代怎麽變，還是可以對生活有所期盼；正如月餅所象徵的，是在那物質不充裕的年代，簡單的小確幸；伴隨淡淡香茶，正是那樸素時代，率真而充實的記憶味道。

Innovative mooncakes from Vietnam, another place where mooncakes are popular.

“As represented by the mooncakes in an era of less material wealth, it is still a blessing to enjoy them with a cup of tea and taste memories of Mid-Autumns past.”

— Candy Chan

About the writer, Candy Chan 陳善宜

Candy Chan is a Chinese-Canadian writer and journalist. Over the past decade she developed a keen sense for stories that matter to the audience, focusing on issues surrounding Hong Kong diaspora and the experience of Chinese-Canadian immigrants. After moving to Canada, Candy started writing about her experience as a young immigrant and her articles were published on different platforms.

旅加記者、從事新聞工作多年，參與不同語言電視節目製作、策劃及採訪，積極關注影響香港及加籍華裔移民議題，作品曾在不同平台發表。