How Chinese Food in Canada Evolved: Key Insights from NAAAP Toronto’s Culinary Panel

Written by Fête Chinoise Editorial team (Kayla lo)
Photography: Fête Chinoise Editorial Team

This past Wednesday, NAAAP Toronto presented a panel exploring how Chinese cuisine in Canada has evolved from humble café staples into one of the country’s most dynamic culinary movements. Held at the beautiful Porsche Centre North Toronto and proudly supported by the dealership, the evening brought together chefs and culinary voices including Trevor Lui (Fête Chinoise Edition 8), Eva Chin (Edition 9), Braden Chong (Edition 11), and David Schwartz. The conversation was moderated by Anime, who guided the discussion through themes of immigration, adaptation, entrepreneurship, authenticity, and the evolution of Chinese cuisine through the panelists’ lived experiences.

Each panelist brought different perspectives and personal experiences to the conversation surrounding Chinese food in Canada. Reflecting on the evolution of Chinese cuisine, Trevor Lui emphasized the importance of understanding the history that shaped Chinese food today — the trauma, migration stories, and resilience that connected communities, and how Chinese food was often created out of necessity and survival before evolving into the diverse culinary landscape we see today.

When discussing authenticity, David Schwartz explored what people truly mean when questioning whether food is “authentic.” Eva Chin shared that if food is embraced and appreciated by the people it is cooked for, then it carries its own authenticity, highlighting the deeply personal nature of food and cultural identity. Braden Chong candidly reflected on how, as a third-generation Chinese Canadian, he once distanced himself from his Chinese heritage, but that David’s curiosity and passion for Chinese cuisine encouraged him to reconnect and rediscover it from a new perspective. Together, the duo now operates MIMI Chinese and Sunnys Chinese, representing another contemporary interpretation of Chinese cuisine within Canada’s dining scene.

Throughout the discussion, there was a shared understanding that food cannot be separated from culture, and that understanding the stories behind dishes is essential to appreciating their significance.

Looking ahead, Trevor also noted that many Chinatowns, not only in Canada, but around the world, are facing increasing pressures, with longtime businesses closing and historic neighbourhoods disappearing. The conversation highlighted the importance of supporting local and Chinese-owned businesses in order to preserve these cultural spaces and histories.

Eva also raised the issue of how Chinese cuisine is often undervalued compared to Western cuisines, despite requiring the same level of labour, craftsmanship, creativity, and technical skill. Society has long associated Chinese food with affordability, large portions, and mom-and-pop restaurants, perceptions that can make it more difficult for restaurants to survive economic challenges or elevate the cuisine within mainstream dining culture.

The panelists also discussed the lack of formal Chinese culinary education and training available in Canada, creating challenges for nurturing the next generation of chefs. David and Braden shared that many chefs in their kitchens bring more than a decade of experience while still continuing to hone the technical precision and artistry required in wok cooking. Looking ahead, the conversation reflected on the growing gap in Chinese culinary mentorship as older generations of Chinatown chefs retire, creating an urgent need to preserve and pass on culinary knowledge, techniques, and traditions.

Eva Chin, Trevor Lui, David Schwartz, Braden Chong, Anime.

The evening concluded with a discussion on ways to continue supporting and uplifting the community, followed by an audience Q&A session. Overall, the panel offered an insightful reflection on the past, present, and future of Chinese food in Canada, serving as a meaningful way to close Asian Heritage Month. It also reinforced the importance of building stronger bridges between generations to inspire continued passion for Chinese food and ensure these cultural practices continue into the future.

Guests also enjoyed hospitality and refreshments from Highbell Hospitality, Fuwa Fuwa, Chatime throughout the evening. We were proud to support the event and celebrate our Fête Chinoise family of chefs, while also sharing the work we continue to do at Fête Chinoise in telling important Chinese Canadian diaspora stories.

Fête Chinoise Past Editions autographed by Braden Chong, Trevor Lui, and Eva Chin.

Deborah Lau-Yu and Trevor Lui.

Deborah Lau-Yu, Eva Chin, and Yvette Lui.

Deborah Lau-Yu and Albert Wong.

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