Sebastian Gunawan Signature 中西薈萃淬煉時尚品牌自信：衣香鬢影下的獨特文化美學
Written by 撰文： The Fête Chinoise Team • Translated by: Ophelie C
Photography: Agus Santoso Yang • Derai • Ryan Tandya • udaeki
As Featured in Fête Chinoise The art of Celebration Annual Edition No.3
Găi Shan 2025 Collection Lookbook
The Artist’s Journey: A Day, A Month, A Year
At the heart of Sebastian Gunawan Signature is a design language that moves in quiet dialogue—between histories, geographies, and lived experience. Designed by Sebastian Gunawan and Cristina Panarese, the label is known for its intricate craftsmanship and modern elegance, but what defines it more deeply is its sensitivity to culture: how it is carried, reshaped, and expressed through dress.
For Gunawan, this connection begins with something deeply personal. Coming from a Chinese-Indonesian family, and as a second generation, he carries and reinterprets around 30 to 40 percent of that heritage in his work. Chinese culture is not simply a reference — it is a foundation. Each Chinese-inspired collection begins rooted in history and tradition, forming the starting point for every creative exploration.
From there, the process becomes one of reinterpretation. Having grown up in Indonesia, he approaches these cultural elements through a different lens, allowing them to shift and settle into new forms. What emerges is not a replication, but a quiet transformation — something familiar, yet distinctly his own.
Backstage Photo At The Găi Shan 2025 Collection
Details Pict from Găi Shan 2025 Collection
「我們設計哲學的核心是自信。」印尼頂尖時尚品牌 Sebastian Gunawan Signature 創辦人 Sebastian Gunawan 伉儷侃侃而談其深得上流社會共鳴的設計理念：「衣裳理應讓穿的人對自己的身份感到自在。當他們擁有這份自信，服裝自然會呈現出他們是誰。這就是我們每一件作品希望做到的。」
Sebastian Gunawan Signature 以精緻工藝與優雅設計見稱，件件霓裳華服舉世矚目。品牌靈感源自對文化的敏銳觀察——每件作品都承載、重塑並呈現文化的豐富層次，難怪在時尚界出類拔萃。
China itself remains an enduring source of inspiration. Its vastness and regional diversity offer an ever-expanding visual and cultural language—each place carrying its own aesthetic, symbolism, and story. Alongside this, travel continues to shape his perspective. Cities leave impressions in subtle ways: in proportion, in detail, in how a garment moves or holds structure. These influences accumulate over time, sometimes visible in a silhouette or a fastening, sometimes felt more intuitively.
The relationship between clothing and celebration is especially significant within his work. This connection finds a natural expression in the cheongsam, which remains an important element in his collections—holding both cultural and emotional weight. At the same time, his exposure to Europe and the United States introduced him to another dimension of occasion dressing: the ball gown. Its structure, drama, and sense of presence offer a different expression of femininity—one that celebrates form and scale. Where the cheongsam carries a sense of continuity and heritage, the ball gown brings a distinct kind of theatricality. Together, they form a dialogue between two worlds, each informing the other.
Backstage situation at the The Sign 25/26 Collection
This instinct to move between cultures is central to the brand’s global resonance. Rather than relying on overt references, Gunawan often works through nuance. Cultural elements are distilled into details—the curve of a cut, the placement of a button, the choice of colour or finish. These decisions allow the essence of Chinese heritage to remain present, while making the pieces feel relevant and wearable for a wider audience.
It is a process he likens to the way culture evolves more broadly. Just as cuisine adapts across borders — Italian food in Japan, for instance, shifting slightly while retaining its identity — fashion, too, must find ways to connect across contexts. The goal is not to dilute, but to understand what resonates, and how to carry that meaning forward in a different setting.
This approach extends naturally into his understanding of modernity. What is often described as “modern” is, in his view, an evolution of what came before. There is always an origin — a foundation that informs what follows. In his work, historical elements are revisited and distilled, with the most meaningful aspects drawn out and reshaped into something contemporary. For him, creation isn’t about leaving the past behind — it’s about continuing its story in a new form.
JIÉ 2026 Collection Lookbook. PHOTOGRAPHY: udaeki
JIÉ 2026 Collection Lookbook. PHOTOGRAPHY: udaeki
JIÉ 2026 Collection Lookbook. PHOTOGRAPHY: udaeki
品牌賦予穿者自信 綻放獨特光芒
對 Sebastian 而言，這份文化敏感度與其成長背景息息相關。
作為印尼華僑家庭出身的華人二代，他坦言創作靈感有三至四成源自對中華文化的重新演繹。這份文化情懷不只提供參考，更是其獨特設計和文化探索的根基。「我的中式時裝系列通常植根於華夏歷史與文化傳統。我在印尼成長，自然而然看到不同的角度，所以能重新演繹、詮釋以至轉化這些文化元素。」
中國地大物博，歷經五千年歷史長河洗禮的華夏文化，融合多元的視覺文化、美學，成為 Sebastian 的重要靈感泉源。先後在美國洛杉磯和意大利米蘭進修設計的他表示，每次在不同城市遊走，都激發源源不絕的靈感，「每個城市都給我留下一些印象，塑造我對時尚設計的獨特視角，並體現在作品的形式、細節與概念之中。」
JIÉ 2026 Collection Lookbook. PHOTOGRAPHY: udaeki
That sense of continuity also informs how the brand approaches sustainability and craftsmanship. Sustainability, for Gunawan, begins with relevance. A piece must be worn, valued, and able to last. Each design decision is grounded in this thinking, ensuring that creativity remains connected to how people actually live and dress. Craftsmanship plays a critical role here — seen in construction, detailing, and durability. There is a constant balance between pieces that are wearable and those that push into more experimental territory, allowing the brand to evolve while remaining responsible for its growth.
Rather than a single defining moment, Gunawan’s creative direction has developed through an ongoing process of challenge and refinement. Central to this is an awareness of the market — not only responding to what people want, but understanding what they may not yet realize they need. Within this space, his design philosophy takes shape. At its core is a belief in confidence: that what one wears should allow them to feel comfortable in who they are. When that confidence is present, it naturally reveals itself in how a person carries themselves.
White and silver Sequence from the Yao Xiang Wang Xi 2022 Collection
華夏文化為本 作品東西薈萃餘韻無窮
中西文化對話是 Sebastian Gunawan Signature 品牌的精粹。
就像他用中式旗袍概念展現傳統文化傳承，同時融合歐美舞會禮服的女性觸目氣質，讓一襲襲裙子呈現豐富的文化層次，在衣香鬢影的盛會中綻放獨特光芒。
Sebastian 與 Cristina 兩夫婦的合作，更讓這樣的對話昇華。Sebastian 風格充滿東方韻味，Cristina 則帶來西方的感性，兩人彼此欣賞，令作品層次與深度更豐富。細節之中往往蘊藏理念與典故，留待知音慢慢發掘、細味和感悟。
設計匠心獨具，剪裁做工細節同樣一絲不苟。無論是剪裁線條、鈕扣位置、顏色和飾面選擇，即使是細微之處，亦處處體現中國美學的底蘊。Sebastian 強調，中西文化薈萃不是淡化什麼，而是透過篩選與再詮釋，使文化綻放耀眼光彩：「透過國際化的視角認識自身文化，了解什麼能引起共鳴、具親和力、什麼可以不失其本質地演繹出來，再透過篩選呈現一種能被世界欣賞的文化特質。」
This perspective resonates strongly with the brand’s clientele, which is predominantly based in Asia and the UAE, where there is a strong appreciation for craftsmanship, occasion wear, and cultural elements. In these communities, garments often hold meaning beyond their appearance, carrying
a sense of intention, memory, and identity.
This exchange of perspectives is also reflected in his collaboration with Cristina Panarese. Their partnership is built on mutual respect, shaped through listening and dialogue. At times, Gunawan’s approach leans more oriental, while Panarese brings a Western sensibility. It is through this back-and-forth that their collections take form - layered, considered, and distinct.
Beyond fashion, their creative influences extend into storytelling, history, human experience, and social behaviour. Art, particularly painting, also informs their work. In one collection, for example, traditional Chinese buttons were combined with references to European military attire — an unexpected pairing that created a narrative embedded within the design, even if not immediately visible.
剪裁設計重視個性 綻放獨特氣質
同樣的道理也應用在時尚觸覺和品牌經營。 Sebastian 不時走訪歷史建築，溫故知新，藉以在傳統上注入當代元素重新演繹。而要讓品牌經得起逾三十載競爭並蓬勃發展，固然必須緊貼市場需要、迎合最新潮流，但創作方向始終不能失去自己個性，背後講求平衡：「平衡顧客想要的，以及他們尚未意識到自己需要的，是我們設計的核心。」因此，品牌剪裁縫紉工藝都非常考究，在突破界限與日常穿著之間取得微妙平衡，「每襲裙子必須可穿、呈現出珍貴價值，並歷久不衰。」
展望未來，Sebastian 認為時尚的本質在於呈現個體獨特性，讓每個人都能自在表達自己、演繹自己獨一無二的故事。這份對個人特質與不同文化的尊重、欣賞和關懷，正正是 Sebastian Gunawan Signature 無可取代的魅力所在，讓品牌持續在國際時裝舞台上絢麗綻放。
Little Concubine 2023 Collection Photoshoot. Photography: Ryan Tandya.
It is often in these quieter details that their work reveals its depth. What appears at first as elegance or intricacy carries something more layered beneath it, an idea, a reference, a story waiting to be noticed.
Looking ahead, Gunawan envisions a future where this balance continues to evolve. A future collection would further explore the space between East and West—where tradition becomes more fluid, more personal, and more globally relevant, while still holding onto its identity.
In considering the future of fashion more broadly, he returns to the idea of individuality. He sees it becoming increasingly personal, shaped by how each person chooses to express their own narrative. Like reading a book, where each reader takes away something different, fashion will continue to reflect a range of interpretations and identities.
In this way, fashion becomes something more than design, it becomes a way of telling who we are, and where we come from.
Yu Garden 2024 Collection Lookbook. Photography: Derai.
Yu Garden 2024 Collection Lookbook. Photography: Derai.
Yu Garden 2024 Collection Lookbook. Photography: Derai.
Yu Garden 2024 Collection Lookbook. Photography: Derai.
Sebastian Gunawan Signature
Founded in Jakarta in 1993, Sebastian Gunawan Signature is the fashion house of designer couple Sebastian Gunawan and Cristina Panarese, established following their respective studies in the United States and Italy.
The house is distinguished by its made-to-order creations, defined by elegance, refined silhouettes, and meticulous craftsmanship. Intricate embroidery, crystals, beads, and gemstones are thoughtfully applied in-house, reflecting a commitment to precision and artisanal detail in every piece.
Over the decades, the house has become synonymous with refined glamour and craftsmanship, presenting work across international fashion platforms, cultural collaborations, and significant creative projects in Indonesia and abroad. Honoured with distinctions including the World Young Designer Award and the Order of the Star of Italy, Sebastian Gunawan Signature reflects a longstanding dedication to artistry, heritage, and the preservation of couture craftsmanship.
1993 年在雅加達成立，以優雅的時尚設計、精緻的剪裁工藝見稱，對細節和工藝一絲不苟。其精緻的刺繡配以水晶鑽石鑲嵌的晚裝禮服艷壓群芳，是當地數一數二的頂尖時尚品牌。作品得獎無數，備受亞洲及阿聯酋時尚圈喜愛，包括「意大利之星勳章」等。
Sebastian Gunawan
Sebastian Gunawan is an Indonesian designer whose relationship with fashion began early, rooted in a fascination with sketching and garment creation. Born in Jakarta, he later pursued formal training at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising (FIDM) in Los Angeles, followed by Istituto Marangoni in Milan, where he refined his design approach, guided by technical discipline and an appreciation for detail.
His work is defined by precision in construction and a deep sensitivity to form, texture, and finish. Over time, his designs have been worn by international figures and presented on global stages, establishing him as one of Indonesia’s leading couture designers. His practice continues to reflect a balance between structure and artistry, with each creation guided by a commitment to refinement and craftsmanship.
出生於雅加達華僑家庭，自幼展現繪畫與設計天分，長大後負笈美國洛杉磯時尚設計商業學院（FIDM）進修，再於意大利米蘭馬蘭戈尼學院（Istituto Marangoni）深造。回國後創立 Sebastian Gunawan Signature 不久即榮獲「IAF國際服裝聯盟青年設計師」等大獎，奠定其在印尼時裝界的重要地位。
Cristina Panarese
Born in Lecce, Italy, Cristina Panarese is a designer whose work is shaped by a natural affinity for femininity, elegance, and timeless form. She studied at Istituto Marangoni in Milan, graduating in 1991, though her engagement with fashion began much earlier at the age of twelve, when she first began sketching garments that would later inform her design sensibility.
Her aesthetic is grounded in classic elegance, with a focus on enduring femininity and refined detailing. Following her studies in Milan, she co-founded a fashion house with Sebastian Gunawan, launching their first collection under Sebastian Gunawan Signature in 1992. The partnership later expanded into additional labels, including SEBASTIANred, Votum, and SEBASTIANsposa, each reflecting different facets of their shared design vision.
Together, their work has contributed to shaping a distinctive voice in contemporary couture, blending Italian sensibility with Indonesian craftsmanship.
出生於意大利萊切，自十二歲起已開始繪畫時裝草圖，作品呈現女性的獨特優雅氣質、永恆的魅力，對精緻的細節一絲不苟。她於意大利米蘭馬蘭戈尼學院深造期間邂逅 Sebastian Gunawan。兩人其後共同創立 Sebastian Gunawan Signature，此後合作無間並創立不少品牌，展現設計理念的不同面向。
More from Fête Chiniose
At the heart of Sebastian Gunawan Signature is a design language that moves in quiet dialogue—between histories, geographies, and lived experience. Designed by Sebastian Gunawan and Cristina Panarese, the label is known for its intricate craftsmanship and modern elegance, but what defines it more deeply is its sensitivity to culture: how it is carried, reshaped, and expressed through dress.