Haisan: Chef Steven Che Introduces Chinese Pacific Northwest Fine Dining to Vancouver

Written by Fête Chinoise Editorial Team
Photography: David Karuhjike, Courtesy of Haisan

A new chapter in Vancouver's rich culinary dialogue is unfolding with the official opening of Haisan, an intimate 30-seat fine dining concept by Macau-born, Vancouver-raised Chef Steven Che.

What began in 2021 as modest pop-up gatherings in friends' apartments has matured into a deeply personal 16-course tasting menu on Commercial Drive. At Haisan, a name formed by combining the Cantonese characters for ocean (海, hoi) and mountain (山, saan), Che offers a reflective, cohesive Chinese Pacific Northwest perspective that bridges heritage, memory, and local terroir.

From Global Kitchens to Local Roots

Chef Steven Che’s culinary journey reflects the global fluidities of the modern Chinese diaspora. After moving from Macau to Vancouver at a young age, his technical foundation was honed in elite international kitchens, including a three-Michelin-starred institution in Oslo and a three-hatted venue in Adelaide. Returning home to Vancouver, Che brought these refined techniques back to the food memories of his childhood.

His work earned industry recognition, including being named Rising Star Chef at the 2024 Chinese Restaurant Awards and winning the 2026 Garland Canada Culinary Competition. In 2024, Che launched his first brick-and-mortar venture, Just Pizza, a casual East Vancouver joint known for sourdough crusts topped with adventurous favours, before turning his full focus to bringing Haisan to life as a permanent fine dining space.

"Nearly five years ago, I was cooking for a handful of guests in a friend's apartment, and I had no idea where it would lead," Che reflects. "Every pop-up after that taught me something—about the food, about the people who kept showing up, and about what I wanted Haisan to be. Opening our doors feels like the natural next chapter of that journey."

Chef Steven Che

Beef Siu Mai with Dried Mandarin Peel, Beef Tallow, Black Vinegar

The Table as a Tapestry of Memory & Terroir

Rather than treating Eastern heritage and Western ingredients as distinct forces meeting on a plate, Haisan approaches Chinese Pacific Northwest cuisine as a singular, unified identity. Cantonese techniques like curing, drying, and slow-simmering with traditional Chinese herbs are paired with fresh regional seafood, game, and local produce.

Served over approximately three hours, the 16-course menu echoes the rhythm and balance of a traditional Chinese family banquet, balancing richness, acidity, and aromatic warmth. Signature courses blend comfort with innovation:

• Beef Siu Mai enriched with dried mandarin peel (chenpi), beef tallow, and sharp black vinegar.

• Sourdough Scallion Pancake served alongside a beef tongue ragu and a confit quail egg yolk.

• Mala Peanut Cold Noodles lifted with grilled prawns and aromatic lovage.

• Quail stuffed with Pork, Chestnut, and Shiitake, paired with charred bok choy and a tangy hawthorn quail demi-glace.

• Persimmon & Century Egg Purée elevated by a warm, toasted soy dressing.

Sourdough Scallion Pancake, Leek top Mayo, Beef Tongue Ragu with a Confit Quail Egg Yolk

Mala Peanut Cold Noodles, Grilled Prawn, Lovage

Persimmon, Century Egg Puree, Toasted Soy Dressing

Quail stuffed with Pork, Chestnut, and Shitake, Charred Bok Choy, Hawthorn Quail Demi-Glace

Toasted Barley Gelato, Sesame Rosette, Coffee Molasses, Brown Butter

Designed by Scott & Scott Architects and built by Made by Pacific, the 30-seat room offers a simple, welcoming setting. In a thoughtful personal touch, Che even hand-threw the ceramics used for service, adding a direct connection between the kitchen and the dining table.

Haisan is located at 2892 Commercial Drive, Vancouver, and is open Wednesday through Sunday starting at 5 p.m.

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